A Fairy Tale In Fabric
By Marilyn Wilson
At Fiat Mode XXI Vancouver Community College graduate Allison Riley stood out for creating her own hand-painted silk. The unique design completed the fairy tale story theme that inspired her collection. In honor of her efforts she received the Gabriel Levy Scholarship.
Riley spent her early years moving between the lower mainland, Galiano and eventually Saskatoon. While this would have been difficult for many children, she embraced the moves. "I have both sides in me - the city and the island." As a child dress-up and drawing were favorites. She learned to sew at home but worked more by instinct. "I remember taking out my first pattern and thinking this was insane." Although very shy she decided after high school to try performing. This led to a burlesque troupe called the Ultra Vixen's Peep Show. It was dress-up all over again with everyone collaborating on costumes.
Marriage and the birth of her son put a short hold on Riley's career plans but when she was ready to move forward it was with more maturity, a stronger focus and incredible support. Friends in the industry pointed her toward fashion illustration. She had always loved drawing so decided to join the Fashion Arts program at VCC with the idea that illustration would be her goal and she would use the rest of her time there to learn how to sew properly. "I liked the drafting which surprised me...I had never really pushed myself enough so everything about this program was such a challenge." Sewing was another experience. "My sewing teacher was amazing. She had so much stamina to deal with people that didn't know how to sew…We learned on industrial machines…and I was thought, 'It's so fast I'll never be able to do this.'" An internship at Mellinda-Mae Harlingten while in school added practical hands-on work experience.
Before designing her grad collection Riley searched for a unifying concept. She started by collaging fashion photos she liked until a theme began to emerge. The story-line she created was of a conflict between a Sugar Queen Fairy and a School Marm with children as their warriors. "It's a battle between 2 styles being fought as kids would with imaginative things like cupcake bombs." Originally she looked for a print. When nothing stood out she strung silk fabric up in her doorways. Cellophane was hung to protect the walls and drop clothes were scattered underneath. After hand painting the fabric she had to layer it in newspaper in a big cooking pot to steam for 2 hours. Faces, clouds, cupcakes with wings and other imagery from her story are all re-created in bright jewel tones. The garments are a mix of this hand-painted silk paired with woven wool, organic soy knit, cashmere and stretch lace. Keyhole cut-outs are seen at the high hip with black lace floral underwear peeking out through the openings. One of the most stunning pieces is a strapless halter dress where the back can be flipped up and the openings used as armholes to create a hooded blouse. Other garments include drop crotch jeans and a gorgeous hand-painted silk shirt dress.
For now Allison Riley is hoping to create more hand-painted silk and possibly collaborate with other designs students on a collection. She is also planning to hone her skills by working a few more internships. Look to see more from this talented artist in the near future.
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